


Seniai pabodusi teorinė dalis - maloniai prašom persiskaityti, nemaža dalis klausimų tai padarius atkris

Taisyklės naudojant priemones su rūgštimis:
1. tinkamos priemonės (koncentracijos ir rūgštingumo kriterijai)
2. apsauga nuo UV spindulių
3. odos suerzinimo požymiai pradėjus naudoti priemonę yra normalu
Koncentracija tūri būti tinkama, nes jei per maža koncentracija, tai norimo efekto negausite!!!! Visai nesvarbu, kas bus parašyta ant pakuotės ar ką jums kas suoks - nepakankama koncentracija ir visas reikalas yra pšššš. Tačiau net jei koncentracija yra tinkama, pH lygis irgi turi būti atitinkamas, t.y. rūgštinis, arba pH 3-4, vidutiniškai 3,4.
Jei rašo, kad atitinka neutralų odos pH, kuris yra 5,5, net jei tai bandoma pateisinti, kad oda geriau toleruoja, laukiamą poveikį pamirškit. Tiesiog ne-veiks. Galit ginčytis, netikėti, sakyti, kad jums veikia, bet yra atlikti moksliniai tyrimai, nustatyta kas yra efektyvu ir kas ne.
UV apsauga reiškia dieninį kremą su SPF 15 ar daugiau, nes priemonių su rūgštimis naudojimas padidina odos jautrumą saulei. Jei apsiniaukusią dieną tas poveikis bus minimalus, tai saulėtą dieną oda gali nudegti. Nejuokaukite ir nerizikuokite odos sveikata, nes nuo tokių nudegimų spuogams nė kiek ne geriau. Nustojus naudoti priemonę su rūgštimis dar pusę savaitės reikėtų panaudoti kremą su SPF. Nors šiaip rekomenduojama apsaugą su SPF naudoti kasdien

Suerzinimas pradėjus naudoti: reikia laiko, kad oda priprastų prie rūgšties, dėl to iš pradžių naudoti reikėtų porą kartų per savaitę ir bandyti dažninti naudojimą stebint kokiu dažnumu oda toleruoja. Man šiuo metu toleruoja kartą per dieną


Odos "pleiskanojimas" yra vienas iš požymių, kad priemonė veikia, nes ima pasišalinti senas raginis sluoksnis. Nuolat naudojant rūgštines priemones pleiskanojimo problemos nebelieka, nes nebeužauga toks storas raginis lsuoksnis, kad lopais luptųsi

Rūgščių tipai:
1) AHA, arba Alpha Hydroxy Acid
2) Salicilo rūgštis, arba Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) - šiai kategorijai dar priskiariamos ir kitos rūgštys, bet apie tia nieko neišmanau, todėl apsiribosim salicilo rūgštimi.
Didysis klausimas: kokius produktus įsigyti??? Sunkus klausimas

Neseniai pradėjau prenumeruotis vieną duombazę, tai iš ten ir dedu informaciją apie BHA produkciją, kadangi spuogų ir inkštirų turinčioms ji labiausiai aktuali. Kam kliūna, tai www.beautypedia.com, tos pačios Paulos Begoun puslapis. Kito panašios informacijos šaltinio nežinau, jei rasit - prašom informuot.
Bare Escentuals - bareVitamins Skin Rev-er Upper
Category: BHAs
Price: $21.00/2.3 ounces
pH: ~3.5
Rating: Excellent
Claims:
Get a more radiant looking complexion by creating a smooth surface for bareMinerals foundation. This product was designed to rejuvenate your complexion like a daily multi-vitamin supplement, when the added benefits off glycolic and salicylic acids to prepare the skin for flawless makeup application every time.
Review:
bareVitamins Skin Rev-er Upper rates as a very good 1% BHA (salicylic acid) product and its pH of 3.5 ensures exfoliation will occur. The lightweight lotion formula contains an effective blend of anti-irritants and antioxidants, while being fragrance-free. This is highly recommended for normal to oily skin battling blemishes or blackheads.
Ingredients:
Purified Water, Ppg-14 Butyl Ether, Cetyl Dimethicone, Methyl Gluceth-20, Salicylic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Oat Extract, Saponaria Officinalis Extract, Grape Extract, Honey Extract, Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A), Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol (Vitamin

Olay - Age Defying Daily Renewal Cream
Category: BHAs
Price: $10.19/2 ounces
Jar Packaging: yes
pH: ~2.3
Rating: Average
Claims:
The beta hydroxy complex in Age Defying Daily Renewal Cream renews moisture to significantly reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, leaving skin soft and smooth. Beta hydroxy complex gently lifts away dull, dry skin to reduce the signs of aging and reveal younger looking skin.
Review:
Age Defying Daily Renewal Cream is an option as a BHA product due to its salicylic acid content (approximately 2%), but the pH of 2.3 is unusually low and may prove too irritating for daily use, so proceed with caution. The base formula is best for normal to slightly dry or slightly oily skin.
Ingredients:
Water, Ppg-15 Stearyl Ether, Glycerin, Salicylic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Polyacrylamide, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Dimethicone, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Steareth-21, Cyclopentasiloxane, Fragrance, Laureth-7, Steareth-2, Disodium Edta
Olay - Age Defying Intensive Nourishing Night Cream
Category: BHAs
Price: $9.99/2 ounces
Jar Packaging: yes
pH: ~2.3
Rating: Average
Claims:
A non-greasy formula that contains a beta hydroxy complex with chamomile and is non-comedogenic (won't clog pores). This rejuvenating formula with chamomile hydrates skin with nourishing moisture overnight to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, so you awake to firmer looking skin. With a beta hydroxy complex, it gently renews skins surface while you sleep to significantly reduce the signs of aging, revealing younger looking skin.
Review:
Age Defying Intensive Nourishing Night Cream is similar to the Age Defying Daily Renewal Cream, and the same review applies.
Ingredients:
Water, Glycerin, Ppg-15 Stearyl Ether, Salicylic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Polyacrylamide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Laureth-7, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethiconol, Steareth-21, Steareth-2, Butylene Glycol, Disodium Edta, Fragrance, Yellow 5, Red 40
DDF - Doctors Dermatologic Formula - Ultra-Lite Peel, with Elm Extract
Category: BHAs
Price: $40.00/1 ounce
Rating: Average/Pricey
Claims:
A gentle leave-on peel formulated with effective exfoliating and anti-inflammatory ingredients known to be beneficial for sensitive skin, those irritated by traditional peels or for day-to-day maintenance. Contains Arginine Glycolate and Elm Extract to exfoliate, refine and encourage healthy cell renewal. Skin is left vibrant, smooth and visibly younger looking.
Review:
Ultra-Lite Peel, with Elm Extract is designed as a leave-on peel product for sensitive skin, and the chief exfoliant is arginine. Arginine is an amino acid that functions as an antioxidant and may have wound-healing properties, but there is no research showing it to be an exfoliant (Sources: Journal of Surgical Research, June 2002, pages 3542; Nitric Oxide, May 2002, pages 313318; European Surgical Research, January-April 2002, pages 5360; and www.naturaldatabase.com). The exfoliant in this product is approximately 1% salicylic acid, and the pH is low enough for it to function in that manner. However, alcohol precedes it on the list and makes this a less-appealing BHA option due to the kickback from irritation. Elm extract has no research establishing its benefit for skin when applied topically.
Ingredients:
Water, Arginine, Sd Alcohol 40, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Salicylic Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Methylparaben, Dmdm Hydantoin, Allantoin, Disodium Edta, Phenoxyethanol, Propylparaben, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Ulmus Campestris (Elm) Extract, Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract
SK-II - Skin Refining Treatment
Category: BHAs
Price: $125.00/1.7 ounces
Jar Packaging: yes
pH: ~2.3
Rating: Average/Pricey
Claims:
Specially formulated to reveal your skin's natural radiance and vitality, SK II Skin Refining Treatment works by softening and lifting away dead skin cells. For a fresher, cleaner more radiant complexion, use regularly at night or as an occasional day cream.
Review:
Skin Refining Treatment. I almost fell off my chair when I saw the price of this ordinary salicylic acid (BHA) cream. Other than Piteraand I have no idea why every product has to have this ingredientthere is no reason to spend this much of your hard-earned money on what amounts to a decent, though basic BHA product. One word of warning: At 2.3, the pH of this product is unusually low, which means there is a high potential for irritation. Also, the jar packaging isnt the best. But given that this fragrance-free product contains the teensiest amount of an antioxidant and some aloe water, even that cant really make a difference.
Ingredients:
Water, Saccharomycopsis Ferment Filtrate (Pitera), Ppg-15 Stearyl Ether, Glycerin, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Salicylic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Tocopheryl Acetate, Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethiconol, Bht, Steareth-21, Steareth-2, Polyacrylamide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Laureth-7, Disodium Edta, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben
Tai vat matot, kad pasirinkimas nėra didelis, jei neskaičiuosim Paula's Choice varianto. Priemonių su BHA gaminių grupė nėra didelė, o dar daugiau iš jos atkrinta, nes netenkina vieno ar dviejų kriterijų

Čion sudėjau tuos produktus, kurie tenkina abu kriterijus ir įvertinti kaip vidutiški ar geriau.
Papildyta:
Pamiršau parašyti, kad jei priemonės su rūgštimis veikia tik tol, kol jas naudoji. Kitas dalykas, kad gal iš pradžių reikės jas dažniau naudoti, po to bus galima rečiau. Pvz., aš naudoju gerokai daugiau nei pusmetį ir jau pradedu galvoti, kad gal reikės pradėti retinti, t.y. nebetepti kasdien, išskyrus kai kurias "užsispyrusias" vietas
